Let me start of by first explaining my background. I am a degreed Mechanical Engineer having graduated from Oregon State University in 2002 with a Bachelor of Science. I have been building and selling parts for the 3SGTE powered MR2 from the time I was a Senior in college. In that time, I've innovated some of the items that are mainstays in the aftermarket community for the 3SGTE engine and the MR2 in particular. I've built and dyno tested many different configurations of the MR2 and feel I can help guide the new MR2 owner toward their ultimate power goals in as much as my experiences have achieved. I often get asked what is required for making XXX whp and what it will cost. I will attempt to create a guide here that explains the different stages of modification with respect to what parts will be required to achieve the power range that stage is known for. Dyno numbers would be as recorded in uncorrected format on a Dynojet Chassis dynamometer.

Note 1: It is always recommended to ensure that the vehicle is safe and reliable before starting on the path of modifications. Check your brakes, suspension components for wear, check for leaks that may be excessive, and ensure your cooling system is operating properly by performaing a system pressure test and pressure testing your coolant fill cap. Typically trying to fix a car that has a known issue by upgrading a part to an aftermarket part does not solve the problem unless the issue clearly is with the offending original part. Only use Premium 91 or better octane fuel with the 3SGTE engine. JDM engines actually were designed to run on slightly higher octane fuel (94) and may not perform as well with US fuels.

Note 2: The use of these recommendations is solely the responsibility of the reader. It is not recommended to violate any local city, state, or federal regulations regarding your vehicle for any reason. This guide contains no guarantees of the results one may achieve with their engine and car. By reading or referencing this guide, the reader accepts responsibility for any of their own actions, any subsequent issues they may have, and releases Kris Osheim and KO Racing, Inc. from any and all liability associated with the use of this guide.

Note 3: The whp values and times are based on a Dynojet and a 2nd Generation 3SGTE installed in an SW20 MR2.

Stage 0: 160-165whp; 0-60: ~5.9-6.1; 1/4 mile: ~14.5-14.9

Required:

• Stock engine
• Stock turbo
• Stock exhaust
• Stock intake
• Stock intercooler
• Stock fuel system
• Stock ecu
• Stock ignition
• Stock boost control
• Stock clutch
• Stock axles

• Boost gauge -- the stock unit is approximately useless. Fine for stock boost levels of 9-11psi, but if you plan to raise the boost, or simply want an accurate gauge, the aftermarket mechanical units works great.
• Synthetic Oil -- this is a high performance engine. Regular oil changes with high quality synthetic fluids will help to keep your engine running at its best.
• Ensure the ignition components are in proper working order and there are no engine codes present in the factory ECU

Stage 1: 200-230whp; 0-60: ~5.2-5.5; 1/4 mile: ~13.5-14.1

Required:

• Stock engine
• Stock turbo
• Upgraded Exhaust
  Both
  • TKO 2.5, TKO 3", or Single exit R1 exhaust
  • KO Racing Downpipe
• Free Flowing Air intake (Apex'i intake, K&N FIPK, or Cone filter with Vibrant adapter)
• Stock intercooler (Unplug the engine lid temp sensor to have the IC fan run always with the 'key on')
• Stock fuel system
• Stock ecu
• Stock ignition
• 15-16psi with boost controller (Either a manual boost controller, or electronic boost control, bypass the factory boost control)
• Aftermarket boost gauge
• Fuel cut defenser (factory ecus will typically cut fuel at boost levels above 11psi)
• Stock clutch
• Stock axles

• Upgraded ignition wires and plugs should not make a significant difference in the power output, though reliability and longevity of the parts can sometimes vary from one manufactuer to another. If using OEM Toyota plug wires, they should be changed every 6000 miles or when missing occurs (along with cap and rotor). The NGK spark plugs listed in the ignition components section of our website are one heat range cooler than the OEM specification meaning they can handle hotter engine combustion chamber temperatures better than the OEM heat range units. OEM cap and rotor are recommended as being the best units available for the 3SGTE.
• Synthetic Oil -- this is a high performance engine. Regular oil changes with high quality synthetic fluids will help to keep your enigne running at its best.

Stage 2: 250-280whp; 0-60: ~4.5-5; 1/4 mile: ~12.8-13.2

NOTE: This is the stage where the factory fuel system limits will be achieved. It will be necessary to monitor your air/fuel ratio with a wideband O2 sensor to safely approach these limits when raising boost. You do not want to run leaner than 12.0:1.

Required:

• Stock engine
• Upgraded Turbo
  Options:
  • Upgraded stock turbo (46trim compressor wheel, 10 degree exhaust wheel clip)
  • Stock Gen 3 3SGTE turbo (aka CT20b)
  • Street Brawler T3/T4 Turbo kit
  • Road Rage GT28 Turbo kit
• Upgraded Exhaust
  Both
  • TKO 2.5, TKO 3", or Single exit R1 exhaust
  • KO Racing Downpipe (this is not necessary if you purchase a KO Racing turbo kit as the turbo kits come with their own downpipes specific to the particular turbo
• Free Flowing Air intake (Apex'i intake, K&N FIPK, or Cone filter with Vibrant adapter)
• Upgraded intercooler (KO Racing High Performance Intercooler Kit)
• Stock fuel system
• Stock ecu
• NGK 6097 plugs or 2667 Iridium plugs gapped at .028", New OEM plug wires
• Either a manual boost controller, or electronic boost controller, bypass the factory boost control
  Boost Level:
  • 18psi with boost controller on the upgraded stock or CT20b turbos (Either a manual boost controller, or electronic boost controller, bypass the factory boost control)
  • 15-16psi with KO Racing Turbo kits
• Aftermarket boost gauge
• Fuel cut defencer (factory ecus will typically cut fuel at boost levels above 11psi)

• 270-280whp is the limitation of what the factory fuel system can produce. If you are unable to achieve this power level safely (as tested on a dyno monitoring the Air/Fuel ratio to be no leaner than 11.8:1) there is likely something underperforming in your factory fuel system, ignition system, or ECU. To go beyond this level you will need more fuel which introduces further issues. The factory ECU can control the factory fuel system quite well, but does not do well controlling larger injectors. Piggyback devices such as the S-AFC are strongly recommended to be avoided on the 3SGTE as the potentially engine killing issues associated with the way these devices "tune" the stock computer are too great to risk.